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guitarben

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  1. Here's a very interesting article from Justin Beckner at Ultimate Guitar. It's also nice to see the specific color history at the end.

    Pros And Cons Of Popular Guitar Finishes

    Lacquer or Poly?

    Pros And Cons Of Popular Guitar Finishes
     

    Once a guitar has been built, it will generally get a finish of some sort. In this article, we will discuss the reason for a finish on your guitar and some of the more common types of finishes we see. The finish of a guitar is something that is much more important than simple aesthetics. Although it’s true that a guitar’s finish can be used to enhance the natural beauty of the woodgrain, a guitar’s finish is meant to seal the wood, first and foremost.

    Lacquer vs. “Poly”

    The two most common guitar finishes are lacquer and “poly”. The debate on which one is superior rages on in forums across the internet. The truth is that both have pros and cons.

    There are several types of lacquer finishes but, when we are talking about guitars, we are generally talking about either acrylic or nitrocellulose paint. This is the stuff we use on our vintage instruments. Back in those days, we borrowed a lot from the automotive industry. Not only the process and technique of painting, but the colors too. You might have noticed that a lot of the classic Fender colors are very similar to the colors used by GM, Cadillac, and Ford back in the 50’s and 60’s [more on that later].

    Nitrocellulose paint is really some nasty stuff for the environment and for our health. I sprayed my fair share of this paint on guitars and cars over the years and I can attest to the fact that if you don’t wear proper masks and safety gear, you will regret it later in life. If you’re going to be spraying any kind of paint, especially nitro, get yourself a good respirator and wear it.

    Still, nitrocellulose paint is still preferred by a lot of people. It is historically correct in terms of what was used on vintage guitars. Nitrocellulose paint will also age and wear and is great for players who like the road worn or patina look. It is a much softer finish than poly and is often thought to let the wood breathe and age (dry out). Because lacquer goes on much thinner, it is said to give the instrument a more natural tone. The first time I sprayed a lacquer on a guitar, I was surprised by how thin it went on. I had to apply a LOT of coats before I could buff it down to a smooth finish. So it requires a little more prep to the wood before you apply it.

    Nitrocellulose lacquer can also crack when the wood expands and contracts. I live in northern Minnesota where we can have swings of 80 degrees within the span of a few days and humidity fluctuates drastically between summer and winter. Poly finishes don’t typically get this effect because it protects the wood from these changes in humidity, particularly.

    101433_d0Iwk9vfMUWph4sK_49587.jpg

    Many guitar companies started moving away from lacquer finishes in the mid to late 60’s. One of the most popular substitutes was polyurethane, today it seems just about any non-lacquer finish is referred to as a “poly” finish. Poly-based can be thought of as plastic-based finishes. It goes on very smooth and is much more durable and are less prone to aging. These finishes are pretty much the same stuff you’d find on a bar top or a gymnasium floor. The reasons for the move from lacquer to poly finishes are easy to find, poly is cheaper, safer, and easier to apply. For companies that mass produce their instruments, this was a huge bonus. Some of the guitars I’ve shot with poly paint, I just use a one-stage equipment enamel that you could buy at any paint shop.

    Critics of poly finishes will cite that the thicker finish diminishes and dulls the guitar’s tone (natural resonance). It doesn’t age the wood because it holds in whatever moisture was still left in the wood. Another thing that critics (and techs) don’t like about poly finishes is that it is often very difficult to repair finishes such as dents and scratches. The poly doesn’t match up as well as the lacquer finishes do.

    How much can a guitar’s finish effect the tone? The answer is, as always, it depends. If we were to paint a guitar the same way we paint a car, we would first seal it, then we would spray some sanding primer down, often times this requires several coats, most of which gets sanded off. This is to ensure a smooth surface. On vehicles, I’ll get all the way down to 600 grit sandpaper when sanding this down. Having a smooth finish becomes even more important when the color you’re spraying is a solid dark color. Black, for example shows any little imperfection in the body. Once you’re content with the smoothness of the body, you can spray your paint on there. You can use a “rattle can” – your standard hardware store spray paint. But generally professionals will use a paint gun and spray it that way.

    We talked about the two big ones – lacquer and poly, but I would be remiss if I didn’t mention oil finishes. Tru-Oil, Tung Oil, Danish Oil are the products most people use. It’s not a bad product, it is commonly used to finish all sorts of wood such as gun stocks and vintage furniture. It does a nice job of enhancing the grain of your guitar. It’s fairly easy to apply. People like to use this on the necks of their guitars.

    Where do all these colors come from?

    Let’s talk about colors for a moment. Most of my painting experience comes from painting classic cars. So it’s no surprise to those who know me that I’m very interested in the origins of some iconic colors that have been used on guitars over the years. I should point out that it’s not all about the color, it’s also about the application techniques, the primer, and other factors that can affect the color and texture of the finish. But as for the base colors, most of them were taken directly from color books of major car manufacturers.

    Fiesta Red, for example, a common color used by Fender instruments such as the iconic 1962 Stratocaster, was a color with the DuPont code 2219-H. It was available on the 1956 Ford Thunderbird and Fairlane models. “Surf Green” was a Chevy color in 1957 while “Foam Green” was a color Buick used in 1956. Colors like Lake Placid Blue (Metallic), Daphne Blue, and Sonic Blue were all colors used by Cadillac in the late 50’s. Olympic White, Dakota Red, and the Metallic Firemist Gold and Silver were also Cadillac colors. Interestingly enough, we still don’t know which Black Fender used back in those days. Most people believe it closely matches the Black Corvettes used in ’54 and ’58 or Cadillac in ’58. It’s pretty much impossible to figure out which one Fender actually used. Fender decided to discontinue painting guitars Fiesta Red, Dakota Red, and Foam Green in 1969.

    101433_d0Iwk9vfMUWph4sK_49590.jpg

    Candy Apple Red was a custom color that used a metallic base coat, a translucent color coat, and a clear top coat. It was later applied to The Ford Mustang in 1966. Gibson was no stranger to sharing colors with the auto industry. Their Golden Mist color is a ’59 Oldsmobile color. The GoldTops used a nitro clearcoat with a crescent bronze powder mixed in (DuPont code #256 is the code for the powder, in case you were wondering). Mixing powder (or metal flake) into clearcoats is a pretty common practice but can be tricky to do and requires some training or experience shooting that sort of paint.

    • Like 3
    • Thanks 2
  2. Here's what Steve said about this. This is part of the Guitar Words of Wisdom thread compiled here by @Eracer_Team-DougH

    If you only read one thread it should be this one, it's FULL of information about the entire course. Some information will only apply to later sessions.

    Quote

    Do we silence the note or let the note being played ring through and play nothing for the period of rest?

    Great question. (Also, it looks by the time of this, that both of us can't sleep.)

     

    There's a peculiarity about the guitar.  When you play a note on an open string, it continues to ring. But when you play a note that is fretted, it stops as soon as you take your finger off.

     

    So, when you are playing a rhythm that has a rest but the previous note is an open string, then the string just continues to ring right through the rest.

     

    What's a poor guitar player to do?  

     

    So, here are your options on the open string ringing problem.

     

    You could quickly mute the string either by using the palm of your picking hand or a finger on the fretting hand. Anything will work as long as you lightly touch the ringing string.

     

    BUT here's my professional advice after teaching for way too many years...

     

    Don't worry about it.  

     

    Here's why.  When you're just starting out, you tend to play rhythms and exercises very slow.  Going this slow lets you really hear how one string is ringing out more than the others.  (And it bugs you so you think something is wrong.)  So, you try to mute it somehow and your already stressed out motor skills get even more stressed out because now you have to worry about not only picking the note, but muting open strings that ring.  

     

    BUT, As you get quicker and you have been playing a bit longer, then you are moving faster and the once ringing string is often muted quicker by another finger or note needing to be played.  Hence, the open string ringing is much shorter and less bothersome.

     

    So, my best advice is.... Don't worry about it.  If the open string really bothers you then, if you can, try to lightly mute it.  But don't overly worry about it.

     

    The overall main idea as you're playing the exercise is to play the music in the proper rhythm and count the rests correctly.

     

    This "Open String Ringing" problem is really only one that gets bothersome to students right around the developmental level that you are at.  And quickly you are on to other concerns.

     

    I hope this helps.  It sounds like you are off to a great start.  Keep going.  There's much music to be made!

     

    - Steve 

     

    Some strings (the open ones) ringing longer than other ones is part of the overall guitar sound - and it's actually a good thing.  It's one of the parts of the guitar sound that makes it unique.  It's even a desirable thing as you get more involved in your playing.  Some of the coolest things you can do in your playing involve playing something that some notes are cutting off while others are sustaining. It's a uniquely guitar phenomenon - and it's a good thing.

     

    Mute it if it bothers you, but otherwise, don't overly worry about it and in a few weeks you'll be moving faster and it won't bother you as much.

     

  3. Most metronome apps have a Tap button that will tell you the tempo as you tap the beat on it. It's usually easier to use the clicks at the beginning to do that.

    If I recall correctly for Chattahoochee the last version on the dvd is about 140 bpm. While I also do the same thing than you and get comfortable with the metronome before playing along, for this one I recommend that you try the dvd earlier. This will help you get used to the rhythm when Steve plays it slower as the last one is very fast and has a lot of syncopation; the metronome will only get you so far on this one.

    I'm actually surprised that this song doesn't come up more often on the forums... it's quite a challenge, but it's very fun to play!

  4. Great idea for a thread! Here is one with John Lennon that has been on my favorites list for a few years; if you haven't seen it it's definitely worth a watch. Although not about guitar, the fact that it was done by a 14 year old who snuck in Lennon's hotel for an interview makes it quite unique, and the animation really adds to it. Here's the full story:

    Quote

    In 1969, a 14-year-old Beatles fanatic named Jerry Levitan snuck into John Lennon's hotel room in Toronto and convinced him to do an interview. 38 years later, Levitan, director Josh Raskin and illustrators James Braithwaite and Alex Kurina have collaborated to create an animated short film using the original interview recording as the soundtrack. A spellbinding vessel for Lennon's boundless wit and timeless message, I Met the Walrus was nominated for the 2008 Academy Award for Animated Short and won the 2009 Emmy for 'New Approaches' (making it the first film to win an Emmy on behalf of the internet).

     

     

  5. 3 hours ago, matonanjin said:

    Guys, Sorry for the delayed response thanking you for the suggestions.  @Blue Dog, what I am looking for is a way to change the tempo as a percentage.  Your way will certainly work.  But I am working a lick which is at 140 bpm.  I wanted to work it at 88%, 92%, 96%, then, if I ever get there!, 100%  I can put the tempo in at 128, 132, 136 and 140 bpm, etc.  But I was just wondering if there is an easy way to change it as a percentage.

    @Ken5035, I still have Version 6.  I don't find anything resembling a "custom values" option.  Maybe I should upgrade but,  as I said in my op, I just rarely use GP.

    Thanks again.

    The way I do it in Guitar Pro 6 is with the Speed Trainer option. I never found a better option and I always thought it was strange that you can't just enter a speed percentage.

    Go in the Sound menu, then Play in loops / Speed Trainer (or press F9).

    1358387588_Capturedcran2018-05-3113_48_22.thumb.png.d79ffeffd0224cccf2f10f30e7593ec6.png

     

    The option window pops up only when you activate it, so if it's already checked you'll have to select it twice.

     

    990173345_Capturedcran2018-05-3113_57_33.png.418f4f70006f4f6213e5d3685d59efbd.png

    From there enter the same value in From and to, although the 2nd value only takes effects when it repeats from the beginning. You cannot put 0 repeat, so it will start over at the end.

    Hope this helps!

    • Thanks 1
  6. 10 hours ago, matonanjin said:

    Don't you think that is what is justifying the high opening bid to collectors?  From a strictly guitar player point of view I would rather have the Tele played by Robertson and Clapton.  But then, of course, I am a huge fan of both of those.

    The Tele does seem more reasonnably priced, but I'm also a huge fan, especially of Bob Dylan. I actually named my son Dylan after him.

    I'm also a huge Beatles fan, and the autographs of the 2 Beatles that passed away surely add value. However, appart from being George Harrison's first electric guitar it was not part of anything major in history; I have never seen a picture of George with it (even from the Quarrymen era) and in interviews he always talks about his actual first guitar: an acoustic that his mom bought for him. Regardless of the condition, it's great that it survived. If someone's willing to pay, then it's not too expensive.

    It's hard to tell with collectibles, you never know how crazy the interest will be. Kirk Hammett paid $2M for Peter Green's 1959 Les Paul and he plays it at every concert. I looked into it and found a very interesting list of The 60 most valuable guitars ever sold at auction. I wanted to list a few, but you should really check it out as they are all really interesting and it turned out to be a great read; I couldn't even pick just a handful to list here. Out of 60, only the top 27 fetched more than $300,000. The "cheaper" ones include John Lennon's first guitar, a few of Clapton's, Jimi's Strat from Monterey, the first Les Paul (owned by Les Paul), a few of Jerry Garcia's most famous guitars, Elvis' guitar between 1954 and 1956 (the Sun sessions), Hank Williams' main guitar and much more.

    Wow sorry for the long response, but thanks for making me wonder how much it might actually be worth, that list was really interesting.

     

    • Like 2

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